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A Hawaiian Wedding Story




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The kukui nut oil torches gave a warm orange glow inside the one big room of my hale, the house where I lived with all my family. Although it was not yet dawn, everyone was busy with last-minute preparations for my male 'ana... my wedding day. Uncle Kealoha was wrapping gifts for the groom's family in protective ti leaves and tying them up with cords of Maile. It would be a journey of almost six hours by canoe from my little fishing village of Miloli'i to the town of Kailua Kona where the wedding was to be held, and he wanted everything dry and perfect when they arrived.

I listened for the sound of the sea, to hear if any big breakers were crashing against the outer reef. Very quiet ocean today. That was very good! We could paddle outside the strong currents next to the land and maybe even arrive before noon!

All the Aunties were finishing the leis we were bringing. There were still many lauhala baskets full of freshly picked orchids, and lots of Awapuhi 'Ula`Ula (which the missionaries call red ginger) and so many other lovely, fragrant flowers! My makuahine was making my haku lei, as is a mother's privilege. Although my bridesmaids' haku leis have all the rainbow of different flowers, the one around my head will be like a tiara of pure white dendrobium orchids and the ti leaves we love so well.

Little Liholiho came running in with strands of Maile to be used in draping leis and other leis that will honor special people in the bridal party. We received the Maile as a gift from the people of our ahupua'a who lived up mauka, on the side of the volcano, where it grew wild among the trees. It was so helpful to live in districts that went from the top of the island to the sea, so each group had all the different kinds of things the 'aina, the land, provided for us.

We were sure to kokua, to give back, by sending them lots of fresh Ahi tuna and luscious ogo seaweed, which everyone liked to mix together to make poki. Of course we were bringing big koa wood calabashes full of the very best poki for the 'aha'aina male, the luau after the wedding, along with the incredible, slightly fermented two-finger poi of Auntie Kalei's secret recipe.

For the hundredth time I opened the package that had come all the way from Honolulu to the Big Island on a three-masted sailing ship, then down to Miloli'i by 'Kona Nightingale', the burros that are used to carry goods overland. I beheld my wedding dress, the most beautiful holuku I had ever seen!

I knew my father had used much of my family's trading money for this splendor I would wear today. But over my protests, he told me that I would be representing not only our immediate family, but our entire family clan in this marriage, and that he was both obligated and very happy to do it.

I looked at it. White satin. I had tried it on as soon as I got it, and it had fit perfectly... well, with a few alterations by Auntie Keonaona. It's so beautiful! It goes all the way to the floor, with an elegant train. Fitted, with a high collar and a yoke, but without a waistline. In this dress, I felt like I could visit 'Iolani Palace on Oahu where the king and queen live.

Suddenly, all was ready and it was time to go. The sky was getting light with the first rays of the sun. I rewrapped my gown carefully, and went to the beach where all the boats were filled with all the people of my family and many of the other families of the village. I took my place in the largest canoe, over six fathoms long, almost forty feet. I would be doing no paddling today, although I longed to do so to make the journey go faster.

It was just past noon when we arrived at the mouth of Kailua Bay. Cattle, probably from Parker Ranch, were being driven into holding pens on the beach, which meant that a big ship was coming soon, and they would be herded into the ocean to swim out to it. I knew that some of my groom's uncles worked as paniolos on the ranch, Hawaiian-style cowboys who were highly revered in the community.

But they were not working today. They were where our canoes would land, along with all the rest of my groom's family who were not tending the imu where the roast pig for the 'aha'aina male was slow cooking, or making the sweet coconut haupia deserts and the other feast foods. They greeted us with the blowing of a conch shell, and I felt so incredibly honored!

My groom's makuakane, Kealoha, helped me out of the canoe. Such a kind gesture from my future father-in-law! Of course my groom and his groomsmen were not there. But everyone else was, with festive muumuus and colorful shirts with island patterns, and all adorned with a rainbow of leis. Kealoha gifted me with a very fine white orchid and tuberose lei that I would wear during the ceremony, kissed me on the cheek, and welcomed me and all my family to Kailua Kona. He was so gracious! My makuakane greeted him in return and draped a very special Maile lei across Kealoha's shoulders. Then Kealoha did the same for my father.

After much talk-story between everyone on the beach, it was time to go to the church, which was only a couple of minute's walk away. As we went, I was introduced to a visitor to the islands, a haole man with very white hair who wore a white suit and smoked cigars constantly. He said his name was Samuel Clemens, but I heard other people calling him Mr. Twain, which was a bit confusing. He seemed very nice, in an odd sort of way, so when he asked if he could be allowed to attend my wedding and perhaps write about it, I told him he was welcome. My sister Keikilani gave him one of the extra Maile leis we had brought, which pleased him immensely.

We came to Mokuaikaua Church, which took over 4,000 men just to crush the coral for the mortar between the lava rocks that made the sides of the building. It was the first church in all the islands built by the missionaries, on land given to them by King Kamehameha III, and was built when my kupunawahine Leilani, my mother's mother, was a little girl. It had a tall bell steeple and was... magnificent!

Across the street was Hulihe'e Palace, also of coral lime mortar and lava rock, with special 'ohi'a timbers for the posts of the lanai. It was two stories high, and must have had at least ten rooms! A distant part of my groom's family had Ali'i bloodlines, and Kealoha had used that faint tie to Hawaiian royalty for permission to use the grounds for the reception and 'aha'aina male. Of course, the family ties to the Parker Ranch were also helpful in making that request successful.

I took my leave of the wedding party, and went into a little side room to prepare. At long last I was ready to wear my wedding haku, and my mother placed it sweetly on my forehead and tied it in back. As she did, I heard the music. It was time!

My makuakane came in and we walked arm in arm to the back of the church. It was silent now. Then my music started, Uncle Kawika gave us the signal, and we started walking down the aisle. My bridesmaids looked so beautiful in their leis and haku leis. The groomsmen were resplendent in their white shirts, white pants and draping Maile leis.

But the only thing my heart could see was Kalani, my ke aloha mau loa, my beloved forever, with his Maile and white orchid lei draping around his strong shoulders, the bright red sash of a groom around his waist, and the look of love for me in his eyes.

As I walked toward him, I could not wait to dance my wedding hula for him alone, after we became man and wife.



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